Scenes of a Classic Maine Coast

October 3, 2022

I had a very civilized departure from Port Clyde today. The sun was up for starters, the weather forecast for the day was great and I didn’t have all that far to go. We’re off to a wonderful start. Only a few lobstermen were stirring and heading out of the harbor for the days work so I settled in for another AeroPress brewed Starbucks Christmas Blend before getting underway.  (Nobody said that you had to completely rough-it cruising on a small boat)! My target today is Director Robinhood, a full service marina in Riggs Cove nestled in the northeast corner of Georgetown Island up the Sheepscot River. It is a great spot to refuel and water, pick up a crew member if he’s able to go, and prep for a jump-off across the Bay of Maine. I’ve done portions of this leg before, but either stopped short of Riggs Cove to visit Boothbay, or continued on to Potts Harbor in Harpswell for a longer sail to Nantucket. One thing I remembered about this leg is the number of lighthouses you see between here and there. Knowing that I’d be writing about them I paid a little more attention this time around rather than just admire them from afar, but from an iPhone camera perspective, I often was too afar, as you’ll note by my pictures. So the order goes; Marshall Point Lighthouse (run Forest, run) , Pemaquid Point Light, Ram Island Light (Fisherman Island Passage), The Cuckolds Light off of Cape Newagen , and Hendricks Head Light on the Sheepscot River. 

The entire day presented views of what most people think of when they think of the rugged Maine coast, dramatic granite fortifications and ledges that extend into the sea that only nature could have designed. Unchecked ocean swells crashing into ledges everywhere sending spuming white water high in the air. Magnificent! The sail was as good as they come too. Most of the trip was on a delightful broad reach that ended up close hauled when turning up the Sheepscot River. I was doing six and a half knots in 14 knots of breeze when on the wind, not bad for a heavy cruising boat!

I got to Robinhood pretty early, so it was a good time to get refueling out of the way, which turned out to be an exercise in centerline propeller sailboat handling in tight spaces, but thankfully completely successful. (If you are a non-sailor, look up “standing turn”, it’s a pretty handy maneuver). Then off to an outer dock for the night and a well earned hot shower ashore. Isn’t it nice when the ordinary becomes something so anticipated and appreciated? 

I got a call from my potential crew member and unfortunately a family matter unexpectedly came up. The wind-up is that he may not be able to join me for the sail to Annapolis. Those things happen and I certainly hope everything gets resolved the way he hopes them to. It is not a certainty yet but, given the circumstances, I’m thinking this will continue to be a solo sail south. Certainly not the end of the world, but I’ll have to keep coasting which will take quite a bit more time not being able to get bigger mileage under the keel offshore. Oh well, more places to see and people to meet! 

A highlight of the night was to have dinner with one of my oldest and dearest friends, Steve. We, with our other friend Dick who still lives in the Philadelphia area, grew up together and have known each other since we were seven. Check me on my math, but that would be 61 years of friendship. There are some countries that aren’t that old! He retired in Bath, ME with his lovely wife Anne and they are only twenty minutes away from Riggs Cove. I gave Steve a call and  we had a lovely dinner at The Osprey just a short walk up the dock from the boat. It’s a great place if you ever get here, but hurry if you’re planning on it this year. They are closing for the season on October 30.

The plan for now is to stay in Riggs Cove on Tuesday to give my crew member some time to see if things sort out and give a powerful low pressure system south of Cape Cod a chance to clear out. One way or the other though I’ll head out Wednesday morning for somewhere. 

A brilliant sunrise in Riggs Cove Tuesday morning!

Ciao for now!